Understanding Madagascar before you arrive
Madagascar is not visited like a neighboring country: it's an island-continent with its own languages, codes, rhythms and fits of laughter. Here are a few true stories gleaned from the tracks, followed by the practical information you'll need.
'Slowly, slowly.' It's the national philosophy. A 10 a.m. meeting might mean 10:30, 11:00, or 'when the zebu has crossed the road.' Don't get irritated: things often move faster than you'd think once you stop watching the clock. One traveler once confessed to us that he had missed his plane for a village party — and thanked us for it afterwards.
Every village, every family has its 'fady' — customary taboos inherited from the ancestors. Never point at a tomb with your finger (you show it with a closed fist). In some regions pork is fady on Tuesdays, rivers are crossed barefoot, and whistling in a forest is badly received. Our guides know the local fady and will save you from blunders.
Between June and September, families in the Highlands practice the 'turning of the bones': ancestors are brought out of their tombs, wrapped in a fresh silk shroud, and danced with to the sound of brass before being returned to the earth. It is a joyful, non-morbid celebration — travelers are sometimes invited to join the dance.
In Madagascar, wealth is not counted in ariary but in zebus. A marriage is paid in zebus, a debt is settled in zebus, a customary chief is recognized by the size of his herd. You'll see these peaceful humped cattle everywhere, crossing the roads as if they owned them — because they do.
Tourist visa obtained on arrival at Ivato airport (Antananarivo): €35 for 30 days, €40 for 60 days, €50 for 90 days. Passport must be valid 6 months after your return date.
Local currency: the Ariary (MGA). Bring euros in cash, easily changed in banks and exchange offices. Credit cards work in Tana and large cities, much less so in the bush. Withdraw in town before heading out on tour.
Malagasy is the national language; French is widely spoken (especially in cities and by tourism professionals). English is rare outside hotels. Our guides speak French and often English.
220V, type C and E plugs (same as continental Europe). Power cuts are frequent in the bush: bring a headlamp and a power bank.
No mandatory vaccines except yellow fever for travelers from endemic areas. Antimalarial recommended for coastal areas. Drink only sealed bottled water.
Dry season (April to November): ideal climate throughout the country. September-October is the perfect window for lemur observation. Humpback whales are visible from July to September at Sainte-Marie. The rainy season (December-March) makes some tracks impassable.
4G in cities and along main roads, patchy coverage elsewhere. Buy a local SIM card (Orange or Telma) at the airport. Wi-Fi in most hotels.
